Saturday, October 8, 2016

MANAROLA, Cinque Terre
We fell in love with Manarola when we visited here four years ago.  This picturesque village is built on steep hillsides and sheer cliffs on the rugged shoreline of the Mediterranean Sea.  Counting from east to west, Manarola is town #2 of the 5 that comprise the Cinque Terre, which actually  means "Five Towns" .
   Because of its uniqueness and rugged beauty, the President declared this area a National Park to prevent its exploitation to commercialism.  For the most part, because of the regulations, there is little construction taking place.  There are no big hotels in the Cinque Terre.  Because of the tourism boom, residents are turning their own units into rental apartments.
   There are miles of terraced hillside grape vineyards along these mountains.  Owning and caring for Vineyard farms is arduous, full time, hard work.  If not busy tending the grapes, the farmers are making changes to access their crops or repairing damaged dry fit rock walls that shape the terraces due to erosion.  It's a lot of hard work and kids today are looking to other interests than following in the footsteps of their fathers or grandfathers.  It may,  someday, pose a dilemma for these families.
   You may note that the buildings in all 5 villages seem to be painted with very similar pastel colors.  This is because the governing authority has declared it so.  Owners have been told the color to paint.  Even the same pastel color next door must be different than those adjoining it.
   Years ago, when pirates roamed the seas and plundered the villages, the people built fortifications to protect their families.  Thick,  high walls atop cliffs, with lookout towers and cannon emplacements were typical for these towns.   Pirates would plunder all too frequently, taking supplies, crops, food and women.  
   Before  the street was added, a ravine separated the two parts of town.   A year-round creek ran down the ravine and foot bridges connected the two sides.  Now, the street brings more commerce as small vehicles can negotiate the narrow street and the myriad of small fishing boats that line both sides of the already narrow street.
   Tiny trucks make early morning deliveries and garbage pickup before tourists are up and around.  About ten the tourists and tour groups begin to arrive by train and boat.  They are heading in all directions, snapping photos and trying to take the perfect selfie.  They all head for the waterfront to walk the cliffside trail. From that point they turn around to drink in the gorgeous spirit of the pastel town on the cliffs.  From this point are also views of other towns down the coast.
  Hiking trails conneect the five towns, as well as do trains and boats (no planes). The five towns from East to West are Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso.  The lower Coastal hiking trail between Corniglia and Manarola was closed because of its destruction from a rock slide.  In fact, it was closed when we were here in 2012.  It remains that way, still today.
   The Coastal Trail between Riomaggiore and Manarola, called The Via dell'Amore, is more of a walking path than a trail.  It is nearly level, smooth and paved.   It is called the romantic trail.  Four years ago it was open, but another slide sent part of it plummeting into the sea, and has been closed ever since.
   The upper, more rugged trails connecting these 3 towns is difficult.  I did those this year.  I feel satisfied in knowing I have hiked the more rugged and difficult trails connecting the Cinque Terre.  Now we can go home.   😎

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